Photography by Xavier Girard Lachaîne
Before I could reach the old side of Amsterdam, I saw Gebr. Hartering. There was no sign outside, just a couple chalkboards. I entered and a tall red haired guy greeted me.
Niek and Paul Hartering opened Gebr. Hartering (Hartering Bros) a year-and-a-half ago, serving up a mix of Dutch and French food from local and seasonal ingredients. A small but great a la carte menu is offered between 6:30 and 8:00, however it’s the feast, with the table d’hôte concept where you can choose between three or seven courses. Paul has always been a cook but Niek had studied art before his brother convinced him to jump. And with no regrets, Niek is a restaurateur now, and a good one too.
I was hungry and so it was seven courses. Wine pairings? Why not. The first step of this adventurous nose-to-tail / local/ Dutch / French / maybe Italian experience was a charcuterie plate - ham, anise salami and a gloriously melty foie gras on toast, alongside a sparkling rosé from South of France.
Gernard crudo with chili, cucumber salsa, and spring onions came next. Simple, effective and fresh. Meanwhile, Niek was pouring great wine from a considered list he had gathered from across France and Italy.
After the fish, a tasty pig’s head terrine - head cheese style - with an assembly of pickles, turnip leaves and a mustard sauce.
We were almost done when brother number two arrived with what can only be described as a fatty, venison monster for two. A venison Quadruple Down. The whole ribsteak served on half of the bone with the runny marrow, topped with a grilled deer’s heart and homemade venison blood sausage. The steak was almost blue, with a hint of lemon and rosemary, sided by a garlic mayonaise for that fat on fat on fat.
I was feeling heavy, hammered by the vapors of alcohol and impending heart palpitations… ready to roll. That was until the crème brûlée came out with the bill.
Guest Column:
by Xavier Girard Lachaîne
